Volume One: EXCERPT
Foreword by Neil Stebbins
“Most of us thought Craig and Kevin were nuts to go looking for hardship in the 70s and 80s. Why risk malaria and the whims of petty dictators when you could still get a wave at Rincon? Hollywood by the Sea was peaceful. Trestles was still fun.
But the two friends heard something calling, felt some pull and, fortunately for the rest of us, they told great stories when they came home. Liberia, the Ivory Coast, the Canaries, Venezuela, Ireland—for chrissakes—and Morocco in a desert schooner with a wild man from Brazil. There was Ghana and Fiji before Craig became captain of an oil rig supply ship on the Congo. There was El Salvador, Barbados, France and Spain before Kevin enrolled in Trinity College in Dublin.
In all the years, through all the great times and countless virgin waves, they never changed. They never sought fame. They never lost their humor or their humanity.”
